There’s something restorative about 90-minutes of woodworking that unwinds all the stress of a 50+ hour work week.
Last week, I posted a photo of the dry-fit, oversized bottom onto the boat:
The bottom is dry fit into place. Enuf for Saturday.
The following day, the bottom was removed, set on the boat in epoxy and re-screwed. By the way, epoxy washes out of hair using vinegar. Don’t ask JP how he now knows this.
With temperatures in the teens and twenties this week, I am surprised the epoxy hardened at all. But today, I trimmed the bottom on the port side. Here’s how.
The objective was to cut off as much excess plywood as possible, without actually cutting into the rest of the boat. At first, I over-confidently started the cut with a Japanese pull saw, eyeballing the cut line. Sensing impending disaster, I soon realized that I needed to scribe a cut line on the plywood bottom.
To mark the plywood accurately, I fashioned a gauge from scrap ply. When the bottom of the gauge is held flat against the side of the hull, the top of the gauge rests about 1/8” outside the chine log edge.
A quickie marking gauge The top edge shows where to cut, without damaging the underlying chine log.
I used the gauge to mark the bottom every few inches along the boat’s length.I then cut from mark-to-mark with a sabre saw set to a 10-degree bevel to match the hull. My block plane then sent chips flying as it made quick work of the remaining edge.
Cutting along the gauge marks removed material close to the chine log.
Here, the plywood has been planed flush with the side of the boat. Note the white line of hardened epoxy that has bonded the plywood bottom to the chine log.
I then rounded the chine with some 60- grit paper and then smoothed over the area with a random orbital sander, including the excess epoxy that had oozed out of the joint. Beautiful. At least to me.
Rounded edge roughed in.
Too cold for the to do this again on the starboard side. The garage was 26 F today. Maybe I’ll hit the other side tomorrow.